Things start moving quickly…..

Time for a new post!  It’s been a very busy summer and there’s a lot of progress to share on the car since I last posted.  Frame modifications took a LONG time, but now that we’re out of that phase the pace has picked up considerably.

Sheet Metal:

Frame modifications have really helped improve the interior space in every dimension – but those modifications have a cascade effect through the rest of the build.  Moving, adding, or deleting anything from the frame means that nearly everything attached to the new configuration has to be custom made.


The standard Factory Five kit, has pre-cut panels to make up the interior ‘skin’ of the car including the footwells, firewall, transmission tunnel, floors and the rear hatch area.  Out of all of those panels, only ONE panel remained stock from Factory Five, all others had to be cut, shaped or completely discarded in favour of new panels that would properly seal the cabin and create the new interior space.


Here you can see the seating area, much more spacious than the stock frame configuration.  The black tar you see between the panels is a polyurethane sealer to help keep the elements out as well as dampen vibration of touching panels.


Additional access panels were also added in quite a few places.  One thing we want to ensure is serviceability in the future should anything require attention or replacement.  As an example, the battery in it’s normal location would require dropping of the fuel tank and/or the differential to remove – not exactly convenient.


Additional access panels have been added to the custom foot boxes as well so we can service the electric steering unit, adjust the pedal connections and travel, as well as access the car’s electrical center which will be located in the top of the passenger footwell.


Hand Brake Installation:

The standard hand brake in this car is a bit of an odd thing due to packaging, you actually have to reach over the transmission tunnel next to the passenger to pull the hand lever – not exactly convenient and not the best place to locate if you have an instance that you really need the parking brake in a hurry.

As posted previously, our handbrake will be a pull type ratchet with a twist to release.  These could be found on some early Mustangs as well as pickup trucks in the 80’s and it’s actually a really nice compact solution for this car.


Here’s a shot of the underside of the firewall where the parking brake mechanism is mounted.  This leads down the inside of the transmission tunnel with an adjuster for length as well as left/right bias (pic below)


Fuel System:

This starts with a gas tank from a 90’s Mustang, easy to source and the kit is made to accept this tank with very minor modification.


We decided it would also be a good idea to paint the tank in truck bed-liner material – it’s durable and has a nice finish that will hide well under the car.  Custom made stainless straps hold the tank to the chassis.


The fittings are Vibrant all black AN supplied by Performance Improvements , with braided lines. The pump is in-tank to keep things cool as well as reduce noise….not that we’d ever hear a pump over the engine.


A fuel pressure regulator for the return system is mounted on the firewall for easy access and adjustment.

Brake System:


All of the brake hard lines have been run and connected to WilWood  flex lines with custom made brackets.  The system has been filled with fluid, primed and nothing seems to be leaking (a good sign), a full bleed will happen later in the build.


Engine Installation:

This actually happened in two steps.  First step was to place the engine in the chassis and make sure everything fit.  Remember that the engine mounts were moved forward AND we’re running a T56 Magnum 6-speed, not the standard T5.  Amazingly, with the engine forward, the T56 bolts on to the stock T5 location with no mount modification.


So what’s the second step?  The second step is to pull the engine back out to install the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing and THEN realize that the standard fox-body Mustang clutch fork does not fit a T56 transmission setup.  Venice Perno bailed us out again….it won’t be the last time I’m sure.  The correct fork is an SN95 from later model Mustangs.


Safety sandals were worn for the entire process I assure you.





I’ve had lots of requests for a video, so I put something together as a quick tour of the car and the progress so far.  I shot this with my phone, so go easy 🙂  It should also be noted that the stock music selection in the YouTube editor may be loyalty free, but the selection is less than good.  Maybe next time I’ll talk…..I dunno, I’m new to this.  Until next time, enjoy!



Chassis mods finally DONE

After an insane amount of planning, drawing, cutting, grinding, welding, head scratching, the odd drink, and more welding, I’m happy to announce that the interior mods on the FFR Gen-2 Type-65 chassis are complete.


So, what did we gain from all this headache?  SPACE.

The driver and passengers seat have been pushed back closer to the rear wheel with some metal and fiberglass reconstruction.  We both found that the dashboard felt too close in the stock kit, and given that we want to have more accesories and a custom dash setup it was really important to gain space between the wheel and the seat back.


Here you can see the fiberglass that has been cut away and reworked to enable the seat back to get pushed towards the rear of the car.  As well, threaded mounting points for the seat frame and seatbelt/harness connections moved to accommodate the leather high-back Corbeau’s.


From the rear wheel well looking into the cabin, you can see the extent of the metal work.


Here’s a shot from the engine bay looking into the transmission tunnel.  The engine mounts have been moved nearly 5 inches forward, this allows us to narrow the tunnel and provide more room for the reworked foot-boxes.  The good news is that there’s plenty of space in the engine bay for this modification and after some calculations we found that there is almost no affect at all on weight distribution in the car as the stock setup is actually a bit tail heavy.

Moving the transmission forward also allows the shift lever to come up through the top of the tunnel in a more forward position.  The stock setup with many of these builds has a back facing shift lever which can limit elbow room.


The transmission tunnel has been narrowed by only inches, but you would be surprised how much of a difference it makes in interior space when you sit in the car.


In addition to pushing the seat back, the floor of the car has also been hacked and reworked to push the seat base down.  Pictured here you can see the new floor tray ready for paint.  Our high back leather seat will sit directly on top of this tray and I have to say, the gains in headroom are amazing.  Not only can I sit in the car without my head touching the roof (being 6’4″ it’s a problem), but I also have room for a helmet if needed.


You can see in this picture where the drivers side tube in the ladder frame was sectioned and reinforced to become part of the new floor tray.  The left side of the transmission tunnel has moved inwards allowing for more width in the cabin as well as opening up a mounting spot for our handy pull-type parking break.


Here’s a shot of the new foot-box area and new seat tray together, just before paint.


…..And here’s me, 6’4″, size 14 feet (with safety sandals of course), as you can see I have a rather large amount of room in the cabin now.  Also rocking my Speed Academy shirt, shameless plug, check out their YouTube channel if you get the chance, great automotive and racing content from Southern Ontario.


From another angle, you can see my knees are no longer pushed into the dash and the steering wheel is a good position relative to my seating position.

So, what now?  This means we can finally move on to some assembly!  Our friends at Performance Improvements and The Performance Cellar are assisting with brake lines, gas lines, tanks and all of the other bits we need start assembling the running gear in the car.  The goal is to have a running rolling chassis by the end of the summer (fingers crossed).

Oh, and did I mention?  The rework of all of that chassis tubing now means that NONE of the stock sheet metal panels from FFR will fit.  My father has built his own metal brake out of spare bits and pieces in his shop……….here’s a sample:


I’m still too big……

Now that the weather is starting to break, it’s time to warm up the cutting wheels and grinders – remembering to measure twice (or more accurately dozens of times) and cut once…..we hope.

This update won’t be as exciting as the last blog post, engine noises are always great, but this kind of work is essential to the final interior form and fitment.  Pushing the engine forward has yielded all kinds of benefits including the ability to lengthen the foot-boxes and narrow down the transmission tunnel to make room for a certain “larger than average” Factory Five enthusiast.
Pictured here is the new drivers side foot-box with installed pedals and steering assembly.
Plans are in the works to add access panels on the side and possible the top of this assembly so pedals and electric steering electronics can be adjusted as required.
The next issue to tackle is head room, or distance from floor to ceiling.  Given that we want to have a ‘production’ finished interior complete with a headliner, sound deadening, and concealed frame, something has to be done about the lack of headroom.
On the off chance that we want to wear helmets in this car, the problem only gets worse.
For a brief moment we both considered a ‘Gurney Bubble’, Dan Gurney was 6’4” as well and it worked for him right?
Gurney bubble.jpg
After a couple adult beverages, it was decided that this would only hurt the appearance of the car as well as inhibit my ability to see out of the windshield.
If we can’t go higher with the roof, need to go lower with the seat.  First thing to do, take apart the drivers side newly ordered Corbeau leather bucket and see how it’s made. These were custom ordered, so you have to be REALLY sure when you make a cut.
After tons of test fitting and measuring, it’s decided that the only way to gain the required inches in height is to cut down the seat frame as well as modify the floor.
For this modification, the chopped seat base will be lowered down below the stock floor location.  The seat will still have slider rails but will move up as it moves forward for my fathers seating position.  This will mean 2 extra inches for my head at the furthest back location while still being able to relocate for my father, who fits in the stock setup.
Pictured here – the stock floor with the wheel located on the right hand side just out of frame.
The floor is an especially tough re-design, as there are suspension points that are located in that part of the frame for the three link suspension as well as a rear wheel directly behind the driver.
The yellow line in this picture represents the existing floor line as it came stock from Factory Five.
The drivers side primary frame tube will also have to be channeled out to make room for the lowered seat base.
Here are pictures of the design planning as well as the CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) templates that will be used to cut the frame tube and surrounding area.
Also, due to the chopping of the frame, the Corbeau ratchet mechanism for the seat recline will have to be ditched in favor of a custom setup.  The seat will still have the ability to recline, just not as many positions to choose from.
Once the hacking of seats and floor are complete and test fitted, it will finally be time to prep and paint the chassis and get ready for the next step – plumbing.

Massive update, Interior bits, and NOISE!!

It’s been a while, but we’re back!


I designed a builder’s logo when I was building short track speed skate boots. The logo was a triangular “VJ” – my initials. So, it seemed obvious to just add another “J” to indicate both our first name initials. You see – neither of us ever watched Oprah so we never thought twice about it. Now it’s simply a matter of principle – we had it first! This emblem is about 3.25 inch diameter from 1/8 inch thick aluminum bar with letters milled about 1/32″ deep. Surprisingly, the hardest thing to source was just a bit of black dye powder. Forty pounds of the stuff is not that hard to find – but 3 grams? Ended up grinding up three pencil leads to colour the two part epoxy.


This entry is mainly about the completion of the engine build and the dyno run which was delayed for months for various good reasons. The engine completion was not near any critical path for build schedule, but there was always great anticipation to find out what the heart of the beast will actually do. We expected north of 400 HP and a reasonably flat torque curve and as you can see in the video those expectations were met and surpassed by a fair margin. As a road car with a mild 3.27 rear end and a T56 six speed this combination will have to be handled with some respect.

Now for the NOISE (speakers up please):

Many thanks for Venice Perno, owner of Performance Cellar in Stoney Creek, Ontario for his selection and build of components that yielded a fairly economical package that will keep us more than entertained.

Power Graph.jpg

Power chart.jpg

An unheated garage does not lend itself to any assembly progress on the build. Fortunately, there is a heated shop set up with very basic hand tools and a new mini mill described in the previous post. So, with time available, lots of hours were spent making big bits of aluminum and steel into smaller, more useful bits. None of these little projects were, strictly speaking, necessary as there are many commercial options that would would have yielded the desired results – but where’s the fun in that? 

Pedal Assembly:


In a previous post we outlined the basic design of the pedal fabrication and the assembly/weld steps. The geometry is based on Wilwood pedal assemblies since those are the primary brake and clutch actuation system components. Pedal location and spacing borrows a page from my Subaru WRX STI which suits both our driving needs very well.


There is adjustability built in for pedal lever ratios and pedal distance to the seat so that the final driving position is not compromised. The pedals themselves are an easy execution starring with .25″ by 2.0″ aluminum bar, milling a few angle faces. and then drilling a few holes.

Pedals rear.JPG

Horn Assembly:

Horn Mill.JPG

This design can also be found on a previous post. The three normally open pushbutton switches which ground the horn relay coil are catalog items sourced on line from DigiKey. The aluminum button and outer ring were machined from solid blocks using a rotary table on the mini mill.  This is not a machine shop quality tool so precision takes a big dose of patience and obsessive compulsive disorder.


Initially, the thought of polishing aluminum was a bit scary.  Progressive wet or dry sanding with 220, 400, 800, and 2000 paper and then a quick polish with a liquid abrasive easily sourced at just about any auto parts supply store. The steering wheel is the kit wheel from Factory Five mated to an NRG quick release  so that getting in and out of the car is a bit more graceful. This kit steering column is replaced with an Ididit unit to make self cancelling turn signals and an emergency flasher switches easily available.


Shift lever, knob and reverse lockout switch:

The shift lever will be straight and short since the engine location is 4 5/8″ forward of the stock kit location and a T56 Tremec tranny is being used with the shift lever in the centre of the three available positions.  The shift pattern of the T56 places reverse in the upper right quadrant beside 5th gear. This is not the best spot in the world for fast 4-5 upshifts or 6-5 downshifts so Tremec’s solution is to install an electric solenoid lockout mechanism that requires the lockout coil to be energized to easily engage reverse. There are as many solutions on how to energize this coil circuit as there are folks on build forums.


We installed a normally open switch which an be activated by lifting a small dog-bone lever on the outer sleeve of the shift lever shaft. Once in reverse, the circuit is kept energized by the reverse switch in the tranny itself. The two switch combination will also engage the back-up lights and the backup camera. All the lower nastiness will be covered by a leather shift lever boot.


While it’s probably possible to get a plain black shift knob with the correct shift sequence embossed we lost the will to live after some initial net searches.  We acquired a “Hurst” embossed knob for a Corvette and replaced the lettering with an aluminum/burled walnut/aluminum sandwich using a hacksaw.



Sandpaper, epoxy, a file, more sandpaper –  and a two part flow epoxy used to cover the bar at any of many local watering holes. The lever still needs to be cut to length once we get a chance to test fit in the cockpit.


Parking brake handle:

As described in an earlier post the original kit location of the parking brake lever did not suit our liking. The new pull assembly has a 4 to 1 lever ratio with about 4 inches if handle pull for one inch of parking cable pull.Parkingb1.JPG

The brake will be located top and left of the narrowed tranny tunnel, with the actuation cable running in the upper left hand corner of the tunnel interior. The pull lever ratchets to engage and lock, and twists about 70 degrees to disengage. Obviously, the handle had to be burled walnut.


Door handles:

Earlier design post HERE


The standard kit does not come with external door handles or door locks. Again, designing and making is way more fun than just buying. The kit door latches are cable operated with about 1/2 inch cable pull required to unlatch.


The lever design has cable slack to allow the lever to easily rotate the first 30 degrees out the door and the final 15 degrees rotation pulls the cable to unlatch the door. The actuation cable is a simple bicycle brake cable available at any decent bike shop. Those cable assemblies are very flexible and allow some tight radius cable turns so interior door routing around door window hardware and mechanisms is possible.


The assemblies will attach to some bars bonded to the door under skin. Locking is accomplished with a rotary lug that slips under the handle in the locked position, rendering it inoperative.

Doorhandle3.JPGStandard key operated door lock cylinders are rotary so connecting the two will be some simple bar/lever link. We haven’t sourced the key lock cylinders yet, but I’m sure our friends at Performance Improvements will be more than happy to help when the time comes.

Stuck Inside……

Winter is officially here, and we’re stuck inside – Time to attack all of the projects that don’t require a heated garage.

The body is back on the chassis so planning and construction can continue with interior items, door work, and seat placement. Refitting the body is relatively easy with two people as long as they don’t argue and are patient. The fiberglass shell is very strong and reasonably flexible so prying the sides apart to clear chassis components is not too nerve racking and works well if you hold your tongue just right.

Body on.JPG

As mentioned in previous posts the inspiration for the interior is the Toyota 2000 GT Coupe of the 60’s – straightforward and clean with a flat wooden dash trimmed in leather.


This level of detail planning seems like overkill, but it’s kinda fun, especially since hands-on work is not realistic in a garage that closely resembles the surface of Hoth.Int Sketch 1.pngInt Sketch 2.pngnew dash.jpg

Picking the correct wood can make or break the concept. We took a short trip to A&M Wood Specialties here in Cambridge to have a look at wood veneer choices. The available selection was extensive.


We zero’d on about 7 candidates to see how they may look once finished. The basic dash face construction will be plywood back with 0.040″ aluminum face and veneer applied with a contact adhesive. The veneer will then be coated with a flow epoxy for a piano like glass finish.

The two part flow epoxy went on with relative ease, the trick is being careful with heat (propane torch) application to expel bubbles. I intentionally scorched a few areas just to see what the limits are.

Dash Veneers 2.jpg

There are many two part systems out there and they are basically very similar. Some claim better UV resistance than others, but epoxies, as most plastics are inherently UV sensitive and will degrade with significant exposure. As fortune has it, layered car windshield glass is an excellent UV blocker of the high energy bands that do the most damage. Tempered side/rear glass is also pretty good especially if a tint or heat shield plastic film is applied. At this time there seems to be no compelling reason to go with a secondary surface treatment over the epoxy for even more protection.

The veneers we chose took on quite a different colour once epoxy coated. Much deeper and much more yellow/orange than one would initially guess. Our final selection looks to be the burled walnut which came out to look spectacular with a rich deep brown tone.

Switch example.JPG

The Vintage Air heat/cool/defog kit we got from Factory Five comes with a nice simple control panel with lighting. The controls are pneumatic so we acquired a small vacuum canister to hold engine manifold vacuum so the louvers don’t do a dance during hard acceleration. The heater/cooling box draws air from inside the car interior unless specifically plumbed on the fan suction to draw outside air. We will need to make provision for outside air control to the unit. The dash vents provided with the kit are basic black plastic and look the part. We opted to get aluminum dash vents from Vintage Air. It seems crazy, but 4 vents cost more than the entire heat/cool kit from Factory Five – ouch!


We purchased various contact form/types of some CW rocker switches online from Digi-Key Canada. Spectacular service – 18 hours from order placement to door delivery from the US to Canada. How do they do that? These particular rockers are rated at 20 Amps/ 12 VDC so we can eliminate some interposing relays on a number of the circuits. They have an independently powered LED backlight and we’ll look at the possibility of getting the switch window engraved to show function. Alternatively, function indicator lights above each switch are a viable option.


We believe we’ve finally found gauges we can both agree on – Classic Instruments V8 series. The speedo will drive directly off the VSS pickup in the T56 tranny and the sensor/function/light wiring is simple. We got just about the only fuel sender unit that is not supported by Classic Instruments – back to the Performance Cellar for another sender.

Gauges 1.jpg

A main power disconnect switch will be located in the driver’s footwell in easy reach, but hidden from plain sight. We are opting for an ignition switch start function as opposed to the currently trendy pushbutton start. This is in better keeping with the 60’s style execution we are going for in the build.


There will also be a fair amount of custom parts that will be going into this build both interior and exterior. To assist in this effort we have some new shop tools to put into service.



Rotary table.JPG

One thing we learned with our track car experience is the importance of solid electrical system grounding. Using chassis ground on critical function elements like fuel injection and ignition electronics can be problematic. Some heavy gauge welding wire from the battery ground to the electrics can eliminate the gremlins that can appear as things start to corrode a bit a ground drops. The other thing we learned is that electronic components generally hate heat. With that in mind the passenger side aluminum foot box will be expanded further into the engine bay and well house all the electronics, relays, and fuses with an access panel for easy maintenance. All of the key electrics will live in the passenger compartment environment.

Pass footbox mods.jpg

At trip to the upholstery shop is in the works. We want to make the dash and interior serviceable without major trauma so figuring out how to install and fix the major components of dash face, cover, sides, and console needs to be thought out – and talking to experienced folks is the best way to start.

Summer winds down, indoor projects begin.

That time of year again, it’s getting cold outside and unfortunately we don’t have a heated garage that we can use year-round.  Time to pack up the BMW track car, store tires and start looking for projects that can be completed indoors away from the inevitable Canadian winter.  Fortunately, this project has a long way to go and a good deal of head scratching, figuring, mockups and the occasional glass of whiskey will be on tap until spring finally breaks. 

Our new brakes from Wilwood showed up from our friends at Performance Improvements.(thanks Andy)

Big Brake kit.jpg

Installing them was fairly simple although I didn’t anticipate that I would need to purchase a new 12-point socket set in order to fasten the supplied hardware – good thing Canadian Tire had them on sale.

Big Brake Rear.jpg

The fronts are Wilwood Superlite 6R 6-piston calipers on 12.88inch slotted rotors


The rears are WilWood Dynalite forged 4-piston calipers on 12.19inch slotted rotors with integrated parking brake.


One small hitch with the rear brakes, we did have to order up a different set of rear hub adapter rings to fit our 31-spline axle – the stock Wilwood kit ships with rings that adapt to the normal Mustang 28-spline shafts.

With all of the added cabin width and length of our chassis modifications we can now get down to ordering seats that will fit in the car.  The first thing we considered was the possibility of finding older seat frames and having them re-upholstered, but finding the right shape and style along with something that would be comfortable proved to be quite challenging, not to mention the cost of having someone custom upholster added to the budget significantly.  After much hunting we decided that the easier and most cost effective route was to go with an aftermarket seat from Corbeau.  We have a Corbeau seat in the BMW project, it’s comfortable and has proven it’s durability with all of the track hours and abuse that it has taken over the past 5 years.  After measuring just about every angle, it looks like the Corbeau LG1 and LG1 Wide will be the seats of choice, Corbeau also allows for custom ordering so that we can get them in matching black leather.  The drivers seat will be slightly wider and have the option of slide/tilt adjustment, where the passengers seat will be fixed in position.  Once delivered, there will be further modification to the seat frames so that they have vertical room to maneuver and fit the slider rails and position locking hardware, a good winter project for sure.

LG1 Leather.jpg

Other projects for the indoors include the steering wheel assembly, parking brake (a little different) and the door handles. Parking Brake.jpg

The stock parking brake location on this kit was not going to work, it took up too much valuable room on the floor near the passenger side of the transmission tunnel.  As an alternative my father has devised a simply pull handle that will be integrated into the dash layout – Pull to engage, turn and push to release.  This is similar to the 1965 Mustang brake handle located above the drivers left leg, it’s also the type of parking brake used in the car we are drawing interior inspiration from – the 1967 Toyota 2000GT.

Door Handle.jpg

The door handles pictured in a previous post are starting to take a bit more shape in design.


The steering wheel delivered from Factory Five is a nice unit with solid wood and a good overall finish, however getting it to hook up with the Ididit column and quick release hardware is a bit more complicated.  Even something as simple as the horn button has to be worked out.

Horn Detail.jpg

That’s all for now – stay tuned for more…..maybe even an engine dyno run??

Cut – Weld – Grind – Repeat

Well overdue for a blog entry, here’s a little of what’s been going on with fall kicking into full gear.

Acquisition of parts has been progressing and the engine build is essentially complete. We’re waiting for a spot on the dyno. Hopefully, that will be the next blog entry.

Here’s a little taste of the engine build before we hit the dyno with Venice Perno.


In the meantime, the focus has been making the driver’s compartment friendly to someone 6’-4” and generously proportioned. In addition, since this is not going to be a one person car, an adjustable seating position is a must. So – both length and width of the driver’s compartment must be considered. The engine move forward solved a lot of those problems.

A custom pedal assembly allows for pedal adjustment fore and aft and side to side. Provision had to be made for steering shaft pass-through so the brake pedal has an offset geometry. The pedal lever holes are for show – no real practical function.



Wilwood was very helpful with master cylinder selection for our tentative brake selection. The new pedal system also has an adjustable pedal ratio so pedal stroke can be dialed in for travel and pedal effort.


Once the pedal assembly was located and end wall mounting hardware drilling was complete, it was on to the steering system. We elected to got to electric power steering from Unisteer with an adjustable effort feature. The “all-in” cost ends up about the same as a hydraulic assist system but involves a lot less in the way of auxiliaries at the engine. Without the foot-box mods this option may not be the best choice since electrics tend not to like the heat and moisture present in the engine bay. Mounting the unit was easy and requires the shortening of the stock FFR steering shaft assembly. 


Making a DD shaft end is easy with a grinder, a micrometer, and some patience. Pushing the foot box end wall forward by 3 inches means cutting the stock FFR shaft at the rack end and installing a new U-joint to match the manual steering rack from Flaming River. Surprise – the FFR shaft is hollow at that end, so a sold end plug was driven in and welded for the “DD” connection to the rack U-joint.


For the input steering shaft we decided to go with an Ididit unit since it incorporates a signal stalk and mechanism, horn wiring, and hazard flasher wiring. We are going to be mounting an NRG quick disconnect so shortening the standard Ididit column will be needed and the dash will need to be modified to account for the overall length. More on that later.


Trial fitting the Tremec T56 and Quicktime bellhousing, using the foam block engine dummy, revealed that no room was available to widen the passenger compartment. On the driver’s side, however, 1.5 inches is available due to the stock drivetrain offset position.


This additional width will allow the use of a driver’s seat sized for anyone over about 220 pounds. The modifications amount to replicating the FFR chassis pieces and welding them into the new position. Fortunately no “spring” in any of the chassis members occurred during cutting, indicating that there was no undesirable chassis movement. The new pieces are thicker wall than the original for more strength and rigidity.


With the forward engine move of 4 3/8 inches, the driveshaft becomes a more reasonable length for the T56. A standard Ford conversion mount can be used for transmission support with no chassis mods. The shift lever works out to be in just about a perfect location in the center tranny position. Since the starter assembly moves forward, the passenger side foot box can be widened at the nose end for more foot room. Length is adequate on the stock FFR configuration.


Below you can see (where the silver parts are) where the original chassis points have been cut and re-welded for the additional width requirements in the drivers seat.


Seating position and seatbelt fastening point mods are down the road……..