The weather outside is starting to turn and we’ve already had our first small batch of snow, meaning this is probably the last update for 2017 with any outdoor/garage work. From this point the project moves back indoors to tackle one of the most challenging parts of the build, the interior.
If you look closely you’ll see that the eraser has been out a few times on this piece of paper, and as work closes in around frame modification, electronics and HVAC systems I’m sure that more changes will come.
Speaking of challenging portions of the car – this one was quite the project. I have seen forum posts where a few builders have completed electric windows setups – very impressive stuff. We wanted to go a little different/old-school and ditched the idea of powered regulators for the good old manual winders.
This process involved not only development and fabrication of the winding and lifting mechanisms, but also a completely new window frame setup for each door to house the tempered glass that will eventually be ordered.
Step one, take the doors apart.
Then break stuff
The inner center portion of the door was cut way with about one inch left around the periphery. Cutouts were made so the door skin clears the stock door hinge assembly. This way the skin can be installed over the modified frame. With this arrangement, the door frame can be adjusted so that the window frame matches the body’s window opening and latch striker post. The door skin can then be independently sized and fitted to mount on the frame. To facilitate door skin mounting and removal, four tabs were welded to the door frame and four mating tabs were bonded to the door skin – with slots and spacers to get x-y-z adjustability for final installation and gapping.
It sounds straightforward but it’s a constant process of measuring, clamping, checking, remeasuring and re-clamping before finally welding. We found that the two door openings of the body were not identical so there is a lot of trial fitting involved and some minor modifications to the driver’s side fiberglass body will need to be made to create a decent weatherstrip seal under the new window frame.
Roll up windows are generally executed with a classic scissor mechanism however there just isn’t the room available in the FFR doors to execute this easily. The correct option in the end (after much scotch and head-scratching) was a cable arrangement that can pull in either direction of the winding action.
The window opening is only 12 inches high and about 21 inches wide with insufficient track length in the frame channel to adequately guide the window without binding. To avoid this a polyurethane guide block which runs in a vertical track installed below the centre of gravity of the glass was required for smooth operation.
The guide block is raised and lowered by a cable that attaches to the block via a pin. The cable routes through screen door roller wheels to a 1″ diameter winding drum which is then turned by the crank handle. Some cable guide wheels ensure that the cable winds and unwinds neatly for the 3.5 handle turns required to raise or lower the window. One of the cable roller wheels has adjustment so the cable can be properly tensioned. The cable (.062 inch aircraft cable) is continuous and attaches at each end back to the 1″ winding drum.
It’s easier to show how this all works in a video, enjoy:
Yes, we’re going to have a sound system. Will we hear it rolling down the road with that engine and side-pipes going full blast……..who knows?! At least we’ll have something to listen too at car shows and cars and coffee events while parked.
This “Out of Sight” Audio system is something that I found online. Simple 75w per-channel with built in amplification and can be connected to with a phone or any other bluetooth audio device.
For speakers, a a set of Pioneer 2-way 3.5″ round speakers will go at the front of the cabin, and 2-way 4″X10″ will be positioned at the rear just behind the roll bar uprights.
Since there were really no good options for purchasing covers, we had to go and purchase fabric and leather to cover these.
Now that all of the room in the doors that could have been used for storage is gone, time to make up some storage in the middle of the car.
These are made with aluminum, wood, leather and then coated generously in a durable foam. These will be shipped off to the upholstery shop to be covered in leather that will match the rest of our interior.
The steps you see are a result of using space that is lower than the transmission tunnel, space had to be made for the parking brake cable and transmission to pass through underneath.
Dan Pye over at Augment Wheel Company has returned the first renderings of our new wheel design….I’m SUPER happy with how they are turning out. 17X7.5 fronts and 17X11 in the rear with lots of that delicious dish. Nice work Dan!
We are still going back and forth with some measurement tweaking just so we don’t run into any interference problems, but I can’t wait for these to get to the manufacturing stage.