Going to paint in August! Enjoy the video.
Bad puns aside, I can’t believe it’s June! It has been a completely bonkers end to the winter and even more crazy spring, but glad to report that things are still moving along very well on the Daytona.
This is Harry. Harry is loud. Harry is not a good helper.
With all of that fancy exterior dash work, the wiring for the interior is now buttoned up and ready for test installation.
Here you can see the Classic Instruments SN74Z and Fuel Link modules wired and mounted on a flip-up panel. This panel will be useful for when we have to have access to these modules during calibration.
With all of the hacking away of the original doors to make room for our manual winders, custom door-skins are now fabricated and have been sent off to the upholsterer for leather work.
Here they are with the previously posted aluminum winder and latch actuator. You can also see a mockup of the leather handle so we can close the door once we squeeze in.
After many drawings, prototypes and great debate, we finally ended up hunting down the mirror set from Brock Racing Enterprises (BRE) Sound familiar? Peter Brock was the original designer responsible at Shelby for the first Daytona Coupe.
“Had these modern mirrors been available in 1964 when the original Cobra Daytona Coupe was built I would have mounted them in an instant.” – Peter Brock
If it’s good enough for Peter Brock, it’s for sure good enough for this garage build.
You can see that the stems on these mirrors are very long, this will allow us to be able to use them to see around the huge rear fenders of this car. The mirror housings will be painted to match the car, the stems and base will most likely remain black.
On the standard Daytona these would usually be fitted with a lexan air scoop to draw in air for the driver (as they were probably dying of heat). Our car will have AC! Also, the giant scoops are not as fitting with this build. These custom aluminum frames will be blacked out, and be the back mounts for custom cut safety glass. Should make the side glass area nice and clean in appearance.
Another change from the standard kit, these little guys were ground down and drilled to be embedded in the fiberglass body and allow us to hide away some of the exterior bolt-heads and fasteners.
These holes and depressions will be filled in with resin and more fiberglass and tackled during the fast approaching body-work phase.
Cutting holes for air to escape the front hood area as well as to join duct work and route fresh air to the driver and passenger. The scoop in the shot is a positive mold made of plaster, the final scoops will be fabricated out of fiberglass and be integrated into the bodywork to be as subtle as possible.
With the radiator being a closed ‘bottom to top’ breathing system, air is easily trapped in the engine bay adding to what is already a very hot situation. These hood vents will allow for some much needed heat dissipation for the engine and accessories.
With our choice of reverse headers (see next blog section), space for the oil filter was extremely limited. To solve this we ended up with a billet aluminum sandwich adaptor and mounting solution from Hedman Performance. To connect it all we have black braided AN connectors and fittings from Vibrant Performance.
Routing the lines as far away as possible from the hot exhaust is very important. We will also be wrapping the exhaust in these areas along with strategic heat shields where required.
I’ve had some interesting forum exchanges as well as social media discussion regarding our decision to go with reversed shorty headers, but I’m glad to report that the end result is not only impressive/interesting to look at, but also takes the hot exhaust further away from the driver and passengers feet – hot foot boxes are a common problem in these coupes, even with lots of insulation.
This system is comprised of stainless pieces from Vibrant Performance, including various 3 inch and 3.5 inch bends, V-band adaptors and Turbo flex sections, feeding FlowMaster Slimline 30 inch side-pipes.
Here you can see where the exhaust expands from an already big 3 inch to a massive 3.5 inch to match the FlowMaster intake.
“Snake Bite” could be a problem.
In these shots, all of the joints are tack-welded using a gas shielded MIG, as I type this blog, the fine people over at HitMan Hotrods are working on the fusion and TIG welds to marry all of these parts for good. I will have more updates soon!!
When we first started this build we knew that we wanted to have something different and opted to go with a more Grand Tourer (GT) theme as opposed to a track car. The original dashboard for the Daytona was functional for racing, not unattractive, but not really styled the way a production GT car of the 60’s would have been.
This is an interior shot from the Gen-2 Type-65 that belongs to Dave Smith, owner of Factory Five Racing. Again, functional, but not really styled the way we want.
Looking at the popular GT builds of the era, we decided that we both really liked the styling of the 1967 Toyota 2000GT.
We didn’t want an exact replica however we liked the rounder shapes, wood finish matched with black stitched leather and analogue controls from the time period.
So, how do you go from the pic above with no dash, to a framework that can be built on? Pencil crayons and whiskey of course…..(40 years of engineering also helps a LOT)
Concepts then moved on to a great deal of cut-away drawings, measuring and referencing to the body/frame to find out how all of this is going to get put together. Remember that we also want to be able to service this in the future, so it’s not just a matter of putting it all together, it has to be able to come apart if we ever need to fix or replace a component.
There was also a great deal of math employed in this effort. My father mentioned that this is the first time he’s actually had an application for some of his second year university math, especially where multiple compound curves and sheet aluminum were involved in the dash top.
From here, we went on to materials selection. The dash structure is made of plywood backing with a sheet aluminum front. The dash top is also sheet aluminum with wood as the front bullnose structure – this will be covered in stitched leather by our upholsterer.
Above you can also see the electrics terminals for all of the wiring in and out of the dash. These terminals feed all of the gauges as well as switches and toggles for the various functions of the car.
Here you can see the large box that’s in front of the passenger, with the limited space available this was really the only solution for the Vintage Air heater/core and AC unit (yes, we will have air conditioning!).
Our switches were laser engraved with the required functions and then filled with black enamel so they can be read when backlit.
Here are all of the structural components together before the application of leather and wood veneer.
The wood veneer of choice is a burled walnut. Most of the others that we looked at were far too orange or red in appearance, especially when coatings like automotive urethanes or epoxies were laid overtop.
The veneers are treated with a wetting agent and bonded to the aluminum, pressure is then added to squeeze out any air pockets and ensure a smooth finish. Once bonded, the veneer is then coated with multiple layers of clear urethane, lots of sanding between coats.
I think the results speak for themselves – the burled walnut appears very deep.
In this shot we have all of the leather wrapped trim pieces for the dash laid out in approximate locations.
Below is the leather wrapped aluminum housing for our parking brake assembly.
That’s it for now – stay tuned for next months post! (Body work, inbound)
Happy new year everyone. Took a bit of a hiatus from blog posts for January, but the work in the background continues! Lots of pics to share on this update so let’s get right to it.
Dan Pye over at Augment Wheel Company called me up a few weeks ago to let me know that our wheels had been completed – honestly the pictures don’t do them justice. 8.5X17 fronts and 11X17 rears with some huge dish, Dan also set them off with an AWC logo’d knock-off spinner for that 60’s era look on a modern wheel.
Fitment also looks very good, we may have to go with a spacer in the front to push the wheels out closer to the fender. We’ll evaluate that once the car is off stilts.
One of the things I love about this wheel is that all of the hardware and even the stem is on the inside, keeping it hidden for a nice clean look on the outer rim.
Those huge Wilwood 6-pistons JUST fit inside the front wheels.
With all of the hacking and reconstruction of the doors, there was plenty of extra material to create a spot for the license plate in the rear of the car. The ‘cam-tail’ that Pete Brock designed into this car was for aerodynamic enhancements aimed at breaking the 190MPH mark on the Mulsanne straight – turns out it worked, however mounting a license plate facing down in the rear wasn’t quite what we had in mind.
This concept shot shows the approximate size and location of the plate recess pictured below.
Sorry for the quality, my fathers smartphone is what internet photographers call a “potato“. What you can see here is the addition of the license plate lighting (stolen from a Chevy Cruze) and the rear view camera mounted in the centre.
When we first started mulling over concepts for this build, the initial thought was to completely eliminate the scoops that were on the original 1965 Daytona, we wanted a cleaner look. However, once we realized that we have essentially a massive oven in front of us under the hood, we had some second thoughts and decided to go with the two air intake scoops located above each foot-box to draw in fresh air.
Fortunately my father is extremely experienced with mould making in his previous life designing short track speed skating boots. A little plaster of paris and a lot of shaving and shaping gets the job done. There was a lot of trial and error on height and width to get these close to our concept drawing.
These will be blended into the bodywork with no exposed rivets.
Custom exterior door handles and hand made manual windows – you didn’t expect us to stick with stock interior door hardware did you?
These parts were made on the home mill out of solid aluminum and using the wood treatment that we plan to use to accent the dash. The wood/aluminum transition is still a little rough, but will be enhanced in the future with more polishing.
Also included in this section is the switch for our brights and custom milled knob that locks into place with a set-screw.
Turns out the rearview mirrors for this car a tricky at best. YES, Factory Five and other manufacturers make an era-correct bullet style mirror that appeared on the 1965 and up Shelby cars, they look great, but you can’t see anything past the huge rear fenders and hips on this body style.
Back to mould making.
Here’s you can see the moulds for ‘take 1’ of the possible rear view mirrors along side of the rear side markers that will go behind the rear wheels. The side markers are a requirement of the Ministry of Transportation here in Ontario, fortunately the lights stolen from a 2004 Jaguar XKR look like a good fit for our body style.
We also have access to a 3D printer through my brother – maybe round is the way to go? Lots more head scratching on this one.
Another requirement of the MTO is to have a third brake light. I have seen some different versions of this online with some builds even having the light mounted under the hatch glass. Our version is mounted in the rear spoiler which makes for an extremely tight fit depth-wise for any kind of lighting enclosure.
This light is stolen from a late model Mustang, the LED board and housing are very thin but still required a lot of cutting and manipulation to fit into the hollow fiberglass spoiler.
Here’s a rough fit – the spoiler will also be integrated into the bodywork with no exposed rivets.
An absolutely huge job, and honestly incredibly difficult to execute, the dash plans are starting to come into focus. The standard Factory Five dash is essentially a rectangular box made of the same sheetmetal that’s throughout the interior, it works very well, but we found the design to be quite boring for such an exciting exterior design. The dash my father is designing is not off the shelf (is anything?) and requires a lot of thought to figure out depth, room for legs, space for gauges, switches, indicators, AND the plan is to have it completely removable in case it requires servicing.
Thanks for reading – stay tuned for more!
Time for the last update of 2017, it’s been a fantastic year with a MASSIVE amount of progress made on the FFR Type-65. By this time next year we should be complaining constantly about having to put the car in storage for the winter….fingers crossed.
I was a little reluctant at first on the suggestion from Mark Bovey (of Targa Truck fame) to have a concept rendering of the finished product, but now that I have the prints I have to admit this really puts the project in perspective.
Not only does the drawing reveal the colour choices on the car, it also contains design choices that are not on a standard Daytona. These choices are small, but they add up fast and the overall effect on the car is important to flush out BEFORE you go and add/change/delete pieces or make investments in products that ultimately don’t work with the overall aesthetic of the car.
These renderings are from Ben Hermance of Hermance Design. I’m extremely satisfied with the results.
Ben was also able to let us see the wheel design from Augment Wheel Company before they were even manufactured.
Here you can see the flush (no exposed rivets) air scoops, as well as the hood vents that will be cut into the bodywork. Still deciding on the type of mesh.
Here, the rear tail light choices as well as the backup light placement and plate location that will be set into the fiberglass. Note the rear spoiler will also have the exposed rivets eliminated.
The turn signals are also a departure from the standard Daytona and more visible to other vehicles on the open road.
Single Flowmaster Pro Series laminar flow mufflers on each side that will be coated black.
The exact colour of green will be dialed in when we find our painter (TBD), but I’m leaning towards a Ferrari colour called “Verde Abetone”, a non-metallic deep green.
I’ve included a small video update for the next three car components:
The weather outside is starting to turn and we’ve already had our first small batch of snow, meaning this is probably the last update for 2017 with any outdoor/garage work. From this point the project moves back indoors to tackle one of the most challenging parts of the build, the interior.
If you look closely you’ll see that the eraser has been out a few times on this piece of paper, and as work closes in around frame modification, electronics and HVAC systems I’m sure that more changes will come.
Speaking of challenging portions of the car – this one was quite the project. I have seen forum posts where a few builders have completed electric windows setups – very impressive stuff. We wanted to go a little different/old-school and ditched the idea of powered regulators for the good old manual winders.
This process involved not only development and fabrication of the winding and lifting mechanisms, but also a completely new window frame setup for each door to house the tempered glass that will eventually be ordered.
Step one, take the doors apart.
Then break stuff
The inner center portion of the door was cut way with about one inch left around the periphery. Cutouts were made so the door skin clears the stock door hinge assembly. This way the skin can be installed over the modified frame. With this arrangement, the door frame can be adjusted so that the window frame matches the body’s window opening and latch striker post. The door skin can then be independently sized and fitted to mount on the frame. To facilitate door skin mounting and removal, four tabs were welded to the door frame and four mating tabs were bonded to the door skin – with slots and spacers to get x-y-z adjustability for final installation and gapping.
It sounds straightforward but it’s a constant process of measuring, clamping, checking, remeasuring and re-clamping before finally welding. We found that the two door openings of the body were not identical so there is a lot of trial fitting involved and some minor modifications to the driver’s side fiberglass body will need to be made to create a decent weatherstrip seal under the new window frame.
Roll up windows are generally executed with a classic scissor mechanism however there just isn’t the room available in the FFR doors to execute this easily. The correct option in the end (after much scotch and head-scratching) was a cable arrangement that can pull in either direction of the winding action.
The window opening is only 12 inches high and about 21 inches wide with insufficient track length in the frame channel to adequately guide the window without binding. To avoid this a polyurethane guide block which runs in a vertical track installed below the centre of gravity of the glass was required for smooth operation.
The guide block is raised and lowered by a cable that attaches to the block via a pin. The cable routes through screen door roller wheels to a 1″ diameter winding drum which is then turned by the crank handle. Some cable guide wheels ensure that the cable winds and unwinds neatly for the 3.5 handle turns required to raise or lower the window. One of the cable roller wheels has adjustment so the cable can be properly tensioned. The cable (.062 inch aircraft cable) is continuous and attaches at each end back to the 1″ winding drum.
It’s easier to show how this all works in a video, enjoy:
Yes, we’re going to have a sound system. Will we hear it rolling down the road with that engine and side-pipes going full blast……..who knows?! At least we’ll have something to listen too at car shows and cars and coffee events while parked.
This “Out of Sight” Audio system is something that I found online. Simple 75w per-channel with built in amplification and can be connected to with a phone or any other bluetooth audio device.
For speakers, a a set of Pioneer 2-way 3.5″ round speakers will go at the front of the cabin, and 2-way 4″X10″ will be positioned at the rear just behind the roll bar uprights.
Since there were really no good options for purchasing covers, we had to go and purchase fabric and leather to cover these.
Now that all of the room in the doors that could have been used for storage is gone, time to make up some storage in the middle of the car.
These are made with aluminum, wood, leather and then coated generously in a durable foam. These will be shipped off to the upholstery shop to be covered in leather that will match the rest of our interior.
The steps you see are a result of using space that is lower than the transmission tunnel, space had to be made for the parking brake cable and transmission to pass through underneath.
Dan Pye over at Augment Wheel Company has returned the first renderings of our new wheel design….I’m SUPER happy with how they are turning out. 17X7.5 fronts and 17X11 in the rear with lots of that delicious dish. Nice work Dan!
We are still going back and forth with some measurement tweaking just so we don’t run into any interference problems, but I can’t wait for these to get to the manufacturing stage.