Back for the new year……

Happy new year everyone.  Took a bit of a hiatus from blog posts for January, but the work in the background continues!  Lots of pics to share on this update so let’s get right to it.

Wheels Delivered:

Dan Pye over at Augment Wheel Company called me up a few weeks ago to let me know that our wheels had been completed – honestly the pictures don’t do them justice.  8.5X17 fronts and 11X17 rears with some huge dish, Dan also set them off with an AWC logo’d knock-off spinner for that 60’s era look on a modern wheel.



This is a staggered setup with 245 45/17 and 315 35/17’s on the rear.  The tires are Mickey Thompson Street Comps supplied by Venice Perno at The Performance Cellar.

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Fitment also looks very good, we may have to go with a spacer in the front to push the wheels out closer to the fender.  We’ll evaluate that once the car is off stilts.


One of the things I love about this wheel is that all of the hardware and even the stem is on the inside, keeping it hidden for a nice clean look on the outer rim.


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Those huge Wilwood 6-pistons JUST fit inside the front wheels.

License Plate Recess:

With all of the hacking and reconstruction of the doors, there was plenty of extra material to create a spot for the license plate in the rear of the car.  The ‘cam-tail’ that Pete Brock designed into this car was for aerodynamic enhancements aimed at breaking the 190MPH mark on the Mulsanne straight  – turns out it worked, however mounting a license plate facing down in the rear wasn’t quite what we had in mind.

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This concept shot shows the approximate size and location of the plate recess pictured below.




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Sorry for the quality, my fathers smartphone is what internet photographers call a “potato“.  What you can see here is the addition of the license plate lighting (stolen from a Chevy Cruze) and the rear view camera mounted in the centre.

Fresh Air Scoops:

When we first started mulling over concepts for this build, the initial thought was to completely eliminate the scoops that were on the original 1965 Daytona, we wanted a cleaner look.  However, once we realized that we have essentially a massive oven in front of us under the hood, we had some second thoughts and decided to go with the two air intake scoops located above each foot-box to draw in fresh air.

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Fortunately my father is extremely experienced with mould making in his previous life designing short track speed skating boots.  A little plaster of paris and a lot of shaving and shaping gets the job done.  There was a lot of trial and error on height and width to get these close to our concept drawing.




These will be blended into the bodywork with no exposed rivets.


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Door Hardware:

Custom exterior door handles and hand made manual windows – you didn’t expect us to stick with stock interior door hardware did you?

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These parts were made on the home mill out of solid aluminum and using the wood treatment that we plan to use to accent the dash.  The wood/aluminum transition is still a little rough, but will be enhanced in the future with more polishing.






Also included in this section is the switch for our brights and custom milled knob that locks into place with a set-screw.


Rearview Mirrors and Side Markers:

Turns out the rearview mirrors for this car a tricky at best.  YES, Factory Five and other manufacturers make an era-correct bullet style mirror that appeared on the 1965 and up Shelby cars, they look great, but you can’t see anything past the huge rear fenders and hips on this body style.

Back to mould making.

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Here’s you can see the moulds for ‘take 1’ of the possible rear view mirrors along side of the rear side markers that will go behind the rear wheels.  The side markers are a requirement of the Ministry of Transportation here in Ontario, fortunately the lights stolen from a 2004 Jaguar XKR look like a good fit for our body style.


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We also have access to a 3D printer through my brother – maybe round is the way to go?  Lots more head scratching on this one.

Third Brake Light:

Another requirement of the MTO is to have a third brake light.  I have seen some different versions of this online with some builds even having the light mounted under the hatch glass.  Our version is mounted in the rear spoiler which makes for an extremely tight fit depth-wise for any kind of lighting enclosure.


This light is stolen from a late model Mustang, the LED board and housing are very thin but still required a lot of cutting and manipulation to fit into the hollow fiberglass spoiler.

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Here’s a rough fit – the spoiler will also be integrated into the bodywork with no exposed rivets.

Dash Planning Continues:

An absolutely huge job, and honestly incredibly difficult to execute, the dash plans are starting to come into focus.  The standard Factory Five dash is essentially a rectangular box made of the same sheetmetal that’s throughout the interior, it works very well, but we found the design to be quite boring for such an exciting exterior design.  The dash my father is designing is not off the shelf (is anything?) and requires a lot of thought to figure out depth, room for legs, space for gauges, switches, indicators, AND the plan is to have it completely removable in case it requires servicing.





Thanks for reading – stay tuned for more!


Concept drawings and more…..

Time for the last update of 2017, it’s been a fantastic year with a MASSIVE amount of progress made on the FFR Type-65.  By this time next year we should be complaining constantly about having to put the car in storage for the winter….fingers crossed.

Concept Drawing

I was a little reluctant at first on the suggestion from Mark Bovey (of Targa Truck fame) to have a concept rendering of the finished product, but now that I have the prints I have to admit this really puts the project in perspective.

Not only does the drawing reveal the colour choices on the car, it also contains design choices that are not on a standard Daytona.  These choices are small, but they add up fast and the overall effect on the car is important to flush out BEFORE you go and add/change/delete pieces or make investments in products that ultimately don’t work with the overall aesthetic of the car.

These renderings are from Ben Hermance of Hermance Design.  I’m extremely satisfied with the results.


Ben was also able to let us see the wheel design from Augment Wheel Company before they were even manufactured.

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Here you can see the flush (no exposed rivets) air scoops, as well as the hood vents that will be cut into the bodywork.  Still deciding on the type of mesh.

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Here, the rear tail light choices as well as the backup light placement and plate location that will be set into the fiberglass.  Note the rear spoiler will also have the exposed rivets eliminated.

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The turn signals are also a departure from the standard Daytona and more visible to other vehicles on the open road.

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Single Flowmaster Pro Series laminar flow mufflers on each side that will be coated black.

The exact colour of green will be dialed in when we find our painter (TBD), but I’m leaning towards a Ferrari colour called “Verde Abetone”, a non-metallic deep green.

I’ve included a small video update for the next three car components:

Door Handles and Locks


Fresh Air Vents


Front Plate Mount


Thanks for reading – See you in 2018!!

Rolling Windows and Wheel Renders

The weather outside is starting to turn and we’ve already had our first small batch of snow, meaning this is probably the last update for 2017 with any outdoor/garage work.  From this point the project moves back indoors to tackle one of the most challenging parts of the build, the interior.


If you look closely you’ll see that the eraser has been out a few times on this piece of paper, and as work closes in around frame modification, electronics and HVAC systems I’m sure that more changes will come.



Speaking of challenging portions of the car – this one was quite the project.  I have seen forum posts where a few builders have completed electric windows setups – very impressive stuff.  We wanted to go a little different/old-school and ditched the idea of powered regulators for the good old manual winders.

This process involved not only development and fabrication of the winding and lifting mechanisms, but also a completely new window frame setup for each door to house the tempered glass that will eventually be ordered.

Step one, take the doors apart.


Then break stuff


The inner center portion of the door was cut way with about one inch left around the periphery.  Cutouts were made so the door skin clears the stock door hinge assembly.  This way the skin can be installed over the modified frame. With this arrangement, the door frame can be adjusted so that the window frame matches the body’s window opening and latch striker post. The door skin can then be independently sized and fitted to mount on the frame. To facilitate door skin mounting and removal, four tabs were welded to the door frame and four mating tabs were bonded to the door skin – with slots and spacers to get x-y-z adjustability for final installation and gapping.


It sounds straightforward but it’s a constant process of measuring, clamping, checking, remeasuring and re-clamping before finally welding. We found that the two door openings of the body were not identical so there is a lot of trial fitting involved and some minor modifications to the driver’s side fiberglass body will need to be made to create a decent weatherstrip seal under the new window frame.





Roll up windows are generally executed with a classic scissor mechanism however there just isn’t the room available in the FFR doors to execute this easily.  The correct option in the end (after much scotch and head-scratching) was a cable arrangement that can pull in either direction of the winding action.


The window opening is only 12 inches high and about 21 inches wide with insufficient track length in the frame channel to adequately guide the window without binding. To avoid this a polyurethane guide block which runs in a vertical track installed below the centre of gravity of the glass was required for smooth operation.


The guide block is raised and lowered by a cable that attaches to the block via a pin. The cable routes through screen door roller wheels to a 1″ diameter winding drum which is then turned by the crank handle. Some cable guide wheels ensure that the cable winds and unwinds neatly for the 3.5 handle turns required to raise or lower the window.  One of the cable roller wheels has adjustment so the cable can be properly tensioned.  The cable (.062 inch aircraft cable) is continuous and attaches at each end back to the 1″ winding drum.

It’s easier to show how this all works in a video, enjoy:


Yes, we’re going to have a sound system.  Will we hear it rolling down the road with that engine and side-pipes going full blast……..who knows?!  At least we’ll have something to listen too at car shows and cars and coffee events while parked.


This “Out of Sight” Audio system is something that I found online.  Simple 75w per-channel with built in amplification and can be connected to with a phone or any other bluetooth audio device.
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For speakers, a a set of Pioneer 2-way 3.5″ round speakers will go at the front of the cabin, and 2-way 4″X10″ will be positioned at the rear just behind the roll bar uprights.


Since there were really no good options for purchasing covers, we had to go and purchase fabric and leather to cover these.


Center Console

Now that all of the room in the doors that could have been used for storage is gone, time to make up some storage in the middle of the car.


These are made with aluminum, wood, leather and then coated generously in a durable foam.  These will be shipped off to the upholstery shop to be covered in leather that will match the rest of our interior.


The steps you see are a result of using space that is lower than the transmission tunnel, space had to be made for the parking brake cable and transmission to pass through underneath.

Wheel Renderings

Dan Pye over at Augment Wheel Company has returned the first renderings of our new wheel design….I’m SUPER happy with how they are turning out.  17X7.5 fronts and 17X11 in the rear with lots of that delicious dish.  Nice work Dan!

We are still going back and forth with some measurement tweaking just so we don’t run into any interference problems, but I can’t wait for these to get to the manufacturing stage.





Hot October, more updates…..

So, the hottest October on record for southern Ontario which means back into the garage.  There are a lot of things happening all at once on the build now and I had hoped that we could get it started before October, however no exhaust leads to noise complaints from the neighbors (well, more noise complaints from the neighbors).

The exhaust bits to complete the side-exit system are now on order with Performance Improvements and with any luck we might hear that 347ci come to life early spring.

Electrics nearing completion:


A nice simple wiring diagram.  Sure……


Above you can see the wiring terminal installed near the center of the dash.  The idea here is that all of the wires required to plug into the dashboard itself (removable) will enter into the front of this terminal, while all of the wiring leading to the rest of the car from the dash exits out of the rear of the terminal.  This should make it easier to remove the dash for servicing as well as chase any potential electrical gremlins as everything will be clearly referenced.


Here’s a top down shot in the passengers foot well box.  This will be the central location for all relays, diodes and fuses in the car.  A service panel has been added to the top of the box for easy access should we blow a fuse or need to replace a relay.


Here are all of the wires in the process of being connected.  Once you account for lights, indicators, fans, fan controller, starter, AC unit, EFI unit and so on, the amount of wiring that needs to be wrapped and made neat becomes pretty substantial.


Another shot of the wiring that will be contained in the passenger footbox, as well as the new sheetmetal to complete the top of the firewall.

Hood and latch assembly:

Getting the hood on for the first time was a really satisfying piece of work.  Lots of measuring and nudging things here and there to get the hood aligned – but being able to see the car with it’s skin fully on for the first time is a great motivator.



Something stolen from my time on the FFR forums, I have seen a few people setup inner rollers and guides to assist in lowering and locating the sides of the hood as it’s brought down on the chassis.  As per the normal process, I sent the idea to “the engineer” for implementation…’s a great system, for me at least :-).


Functionally it’s great, makes raising and lowering the hood with one person a snap.  Lots of work to go to make it pretty (buy stocks in body-filler now folks).



Now that the hood is located, the correct positioning of the sheetmetal and radiator setup can be completed.  My father informed me that this was probably the hardest thing he’s done on the car to date as it involved sealing the sheetmetal against the underside of the hood opening in the fiberglass.  I have to say, for being such a tough job, the results are fantastic.




Part of keeping this car in the vision of “more GT, less track machine” was to add some things that are completely non-standard in the Factory Five kit.  For the stock setup, there are plexiglass slider arrangements that my father and I both agreed didn’t really look right on the street and functionally were not as good as a full roll down windows.  The only issue with this is HOW TO DO IT.  I handed this one to the engineer, and he’s still scratching his head.  Not only do you need a place for the window to go in the door, but you need to figure out a way to reliably raise and lower it in a custom build track…….not an easy task.

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The idea we THINK we have landed on is a ‘pull-strap’ drop down window.  A winding mechanism was batted around for a bit, but the complexity/weight and possibility of rattling inside the doorframe pretty much put it out of the running.

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Door dismantling has already begun to make room for the windows.



A great connection I made through Speed Academy is Dan Pye and his company Augment Wheels.  Dan is a great guy, drove out from Mississauga to see the build and start providing feedback as well as new ideas on what we can do for a custom wheel design on our Type-65.  I will have much more on this process in the coming months, super excited to be exploring custom wheels.


Dan had a great line – that we “all share this insane sickness” when it comes to cars and car builds.  Here’s a bit on Dan’s awesome 911 project, pretty insane, and Dan if you’re reading I will be pestering non-stop for a ride once it’s done:

Quick update video:

Again, last but not least – here’s a quick walk around video from Thanksgiving weekend in Canada (yes, Canada has thanksgiving).  I mention the roll-down window idea that has since been ditched for the pull-strap idea….it might change again, who knows??


Where exactly did the summer go?  It’s September already?   I have a ton of stuff to share in this post, probably best to get right down to it and let the pictures do the talking.

Cockpit Stuff:


The custom shifter, parking brake and quick release wheel have been fitted giving us the chance to see how everything is for ergonomics.  Getting in and out is going to be a challenge, but the good news is that once you’re in everything is in the correct position.


Here you can see the Vintage Air unit that was supplied by Factory Five with our kit.  The modified engine position has really helped in providing more space to run electrical and HVAC tubing.


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In this shot on the engine side of the firewall, you can see the coolant in/out with bleed valve, to the left is the fuel pressure regulator.

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In addition to the reverse lockout switch on the shifter, a trigger has also been added to the clutch pedal lever to lockout the ability to start the car while it’s in gear.


The sound system is also getting roughed in to the cockpit – these are Pioneer 3X10 2-way speakers that will be mounted directly behind the passenger and driver in the side pillars of the hatch area.  3.5 inch round 2-ways will reside in the doors as well.

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Speaker boxes were added to make the speaker more flush with the interior space.


The throttle pedal has now been connected to the MSD EFI unit by way of a lever and cable system.  The idea here (much like the setup in our track BMW) was to make the throttle progressive, the linkage can be modified to provide more or less travel at a given point in the throttle position.

Here’s a short video on the custom linkage and shifter:

The lockout on the shifter will prevent movement to reverse unless engaged, it will also activate the rear view camera and integrated LCD…..more on that later.

Accessories, Cooling and Oil:

IMG_0502.jpgThe accessories are now installed with a manually adjustable tensioner setup from March Performance.  The good news here is that the pulleys all align and most importantly, the crank pulley does not interfere with the chassis.

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Here you can see the remote oil filter setup with billet parts from Hedman Performance. This is mounted on the drivers side foot box.  The screw in adaptor fits in the stock oil filter location, we will have to add heat shielding to make sure the lines and adaptor don’t get too hot near those new headers.


Modification also had to be done to the cooling shroud to accommodate our upgraded fan.  This fan moves way more CFM through the radiator and AC condenser mounted in the nose.  The fan will be controlled by a Derale PWM 16795 and will give us variable fan speeds based on temp and cooling requirements.




We had many discussions about how to make the exhaust.  The larger foot boxes and modified engine position meant that we were looking at a custom exhaust setup of some description.  Weighing all of the options we landed on these JBA 1650S headers, mounted backwards.  It seems strange, but it allows for us to clear the foot boxes and still manage to exit the side of the car.  More on the exhaust system later – it promises to be unique.



Here (along with my foot), you can see the primary electrical center of the car.  This is located in the top of the passengers foot box and houses all of the relays and terminal connections as well as routing for the MSD EFI ECU, Derale fan controller and MSD Ignition.

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Mounted to the front of the foot box you can see what will be the sealed fuse boxes, vacuum canister for the HVAC system controls and the MSD coil.

Body back on:

Getting the body back on was really quite difficult.  With the added customization it becomes a real trick to be able to clear the fuel tank and set the windshield end of the body down.  The great news is that it fits!  Now we can really start to see the machine taking shape.

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As usual – thanks for following along, I’ll have another update soon!

Things start moving quickly…..

Time for a new post!  It’s been a very busy summer and there’s a lot of progress to share on the car since I last posted.  Frame modifications took a LONG time, but now that we’re out of that phase the pace has picked up considerably.

Sheet Metal:

Frame modifications have really helped improve the interior space in every dimension – but those modifications have a cascade effect through the rest of the build.  Moving, adding, or deleting anything from the frame means that nearly everything attached to the new configuration has to be custom made.


The standard Factory Five kit, has pre-cut panels to make up the interior ‘skin’ of the car including the footwells, firewall, transmission tunnel, floors and the rear hatch area.  Out of all of those panels, only ONE panel remained stock from Factory Five, all others had to be cut, shaped or completely discarded in favour of new panels that would properly seal the cabin and create the new interior space.


Here you can see the seating area, much more spacious than the stock frame configuration.  The black tar you see between the panels is a polyurethane sealer to help keep the elements out as well as dampen vibration of touching panels.


Additional access panels were also added in quite a few places.  One thing we want to ensure is serviceability in the future should anything require attention or replacement.  As an example, the battery in it’s normal location would require dropping of the fuel tank and/or the differential to remove – not exactly convenient.


Additional access panels have been added to the custom foot boxes as well so we can service the electric steering unit, adjust the pedal connections and travel, as well as access the car’s electrical center which will be located in the top of the passenger footwell.


Hand Brake Installation:

The standard hand brake in this car is a bit of an odd thing due to packaging, you actually have to reach over the transmission tunnel next to the passenger to pull the hand lever – not exactly convenient and not the best place to locate if you have an instance that you really need the parking brake in a hurry.

As posted previously, our handbrake will be a pull type ratchet with a twist to release.  These could be found on some early Mustangs as well as pickup trucks in the 80’s and it’s actually a really nice compact solution for this car.


Here’s a shot of the underside of the firewall where the parking brake mechanism is mounted.  This leads down the inside of the transmission tunnel with an adjuster for length as well as left/right bias (pic below)


Fuel System:

This starts with a gas tank from a 90’s Mustang, easy to source and the kit is made to accept this tank with very minor modification.


We decided it would also be a good idea to paint the tank in truck bed-liner material – it’s durable and has a nice finish that will hide well under the car.  Custom made stainless straps hold the tank to the chassis.


The fittings are Vibrant all black AN supplied by Performance Improvements , with braided lines. The pump is in-tank to keep things cool as well as reduce noise….not that we’d ever hear a pump over the engine.


A fuel pressure regulator for the return system is mounted on the firewall for easy access and adjustment.

Brake System:


All of the brake hard lines have been run and connected to WilWood  flex lines with custom made brackets.  The system has been filled with fluid, primed and nothing seems to be leaking (a good sign), a full bleed will happen later in the build.


Engine Installation:

This actually happened in two steps.  First step was to place the engine in the chassis and make sure everything fit.  Remember that the engine mounts were moved forward AND we’re running a T56 Magnum 6-speed, not the standard T5.  Amazingly, with the engine forward, the T56 bolts on to the stock T5 location with no mount modification.


So what’s the second step?  The second step is to pull the engine back out to install the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing and THEN realize that the standard fox-body Mustang clutch fork does not fit a T56 transmission setup.  Venice Perno bailed us out again….it won’t be the last time I’m sure.  The correct fork is an SN95 from later model Mustangs.


Safety sandals were worn for the entire process I assure you.





I’ve had lots of requests for a video, so I put something together as a quick tour of the car and the progress so far.  I shot this with my phone, so go easy 🙂  It should also be noted that the stock music selection in the YouTube editor may be loyalty free, but the selection is less than good.  Maybe next time I’ll talk…..I dunno, I’m new to this.  Until next time, enjoy!